Clematis in New Zealand: How to plant, prune and enjoy Clematis climbers

Clematis are one of the easiest ways to add height, privacy, and proper “finished” look to a New Zealand garden without sacrificing heaps of ground space. They’re brilliant on fences and trellis panels, they soften pergolas and archways, and they’re a smart way to get flowers up at eye level instead of stuck down at ankle height.

But here’s the honest bit: clematis success in NZ is less about having magic soil and more about two simple things:

1. understanding which group your clematis sits in (based on when it flowers), and
2. using the right pruning method for that group.

Get the pruning wrong and you can accidentally remove the season’s flower buds in one go. Get it right and clematis can be one of the most rewarding, reliable climbers for South Island gardens (wind, frost, and all).

In this guide we’ll start with the clematis groups, then the pruning methods (in plain English), then we’ll move into NZ-specific planting and care. Along the way we’ll also cover the clematis we grow:

2026 Range: Clematis Princess Diana, Clematis Kiri Te Kanawa, Clematis Pink Champagne, Clematis Belle of Woking, Clematis Guernsey Cream, Clematis The President, Clematis Elsa Späth, Clematis Nelly Moser, and Clematis montana Snowflake.

Double Flowers- Belle of Woking & Kiri Te Kanawa

1) The different groups of clematis

For pruning purposes, clematis are usually split into three main groups. The groups are based on when they flower and whether they flower on old wood or new growth. That’s it. Once you know that, pruning becomes dead simple.

• Old wood = stems that grew last season (or earlier). If your clematis forms buds on old wood, heavy winter pruning removes those buds.
• New growth = the fresh stems that shoot in spring and summer. If your clematis flowers on new growth, hard pruning won’t reduce flowering (it can actually improve it).

A handy NZ rule of thumb:

• Flowers mainly in spring → usually Group 1
• Flowers in late spring/early summer with big blooms (often repeats) → usually Group 2
• Flowers mainly in late summer/autumn → usually Group 3

Group 1: Early spring-flowering clematis (flowers on old wood)

Group 1 includes many early species and the montana types. These are the ones that can absolutely smother themselves in blooms in spring, then they spend the rest of the season growing like they’ve had three coffees.

What they’re like in NZ gardens

• Fast coverage (great for big pergolas, long fence runs, and “please hide that shed” situations).
• Generally tough once established.
• They can be vigorous, so support needs to be sturdy.

Pruning implications: because Group 1 flowers on last year’s wood, it should be pruned lightly (if at all), and only after flowering.

Clematis Montana Snowflake sits squarely in this “spring show + vigorous growth” camp.

Group 2: Large-flowered hybrids (flowers on old and new wood)

Group 2 is where most of the classic “big flower clematis” sit — the ones people picture when they say “clematis”. They often flower in late spring/early summer and many will put on a second, lighter flush later on.

What they’re like in NZ gardens

• Great feature climbers for smaller spaces.
• Easier to keep tidy than montanas.
• If pruned well, they flower at a nice height instead of only at the top.

Pruning implications: Group 2 clematis are large-flowered hybrids and are typically pruned in late winter/early spring to a framework, and can also be trimmed after the first flush to encourage tidiness (and sometimes repeats).

These are commonly treated as Group 2 in home gardens:
Clematis Kiri Te Kanawa, Pink Champagne, Belle of Woking, Guernsey Cream, The President, Elsa Späth, and Nelly Moser.

Group 3: Late-flowering clematis (flowers on new growth)

Group 3 clematis flower on the fresh stems produced in the current season. This is the group that makes DIY landscapers very happy, because the annual routine is predictable: cut it back hard, then let it rip.

What they’re like in NZ gardens

• Great for colder areas and frost pockets because winter damage isn’t a big deal — they regrow from low down.
• Often flower later, carrying colour well into late summer/early autumn.
• Usually the easiest group to prune.

Pruning implications: Group 3 clematis should be pruned back hard in late winter while dormant because they flower on current season growth.

Clematis Princess Diana is a well-known late-flowering, Group 3 clematis.

2) Different pruning methods based on clematis type (what to do, when to do it)

Here’s the practical pruning section you can come back to every year. No fluff, no mystery — just the method that matches the group.

Pruning method for Group 1 (Montana and early flowering types)

Use this for: Clematis Montana Snowflake and other early-flowering clematis.

When: after flowering finishes (mid–late spring, depending on your region)
How:

• If it’s happy and not outgrowing the space, you can leave it alone apart from removing dead or damaged stems.
• If it needs control, shorten long runners and thin out congested growth.
• Aim to keep a tidy framework without gutting the plant.

Warning: if you prune Group 1 hard in winter, you’re very likely removing the flower buds that formed the previous season.

Pruning method for Group 2 (Large-flowered hybrids)

Use this for: Kiri Te Kanawa, Pink Champagne, Belle of Woking, Guernsey Cream, The President, Elsa Späth, Nelly Moser (and most large-flowered hybrids).

When: late winter to early spring (before strong growth starts)
How:

1. Remove dead, weak, and damaged stems completely.
2. Keep the strongest framework stems.
3. Shorten remaining stems to healthy buds (you’re shaping, not scalping).
4. Optional: after the first big flush of flowers, you can lightly trim back to encourage tidiness and, in some cases, repeat flowering.

This approach fits the way Group 2 clematis flower — an early show from last year’s growth, then potential later flowers on new growth.

Tip: If your Group 2 clematis has “bare legs” (all foliage and flowers up top), do a slightly firmer prune for one season to encourage lower shoots — but don’t cut everything to ground level unless you’re happy to sacrifice early flowers.

Pruning method for Group 3 (Late flowering, new wood)

Use this for: Clematis Princess Diana (and other Group 3 types).

When: late winter to early spring while dormant
How:

• Cut all stems back hard to low buds (often around 20–40 cm above ground, depending on how established the plant is).
• Remove spindly growth.
• Then feed and mulch — because it’s about to regrow fast.

Group 3 clematis flower on new growth, so this is the easiest, most repeatable pruning routine.

Clematis in NZ conditions: what they actually need to thrive

New Zealand has a reputation for “easy gardening”, but the South Island in particular can be a proper test: drying winds, sharp frosts, and temperature swings. The good news is clematis can handle a lot — as long as you plant them well and don’t let them dry out while they establish.

Sun, shade, and the classic “cool roots” idea

Most clematis flower best with at least half a day of sun. In cooler coastal South Island gardens, full sun is often perfect. In hot inland spots, morning sun plus afternoon shade can reduce stress (and help pale flowers last longer).

Clematis also prefer cooler root zones. The practical way to do that in NZ:

• mulch the base well, and/or
• plant a low groundcover or small shrub in front (not right on top of the crown), and
• avoid baking-hot paving hard up against the stem.

Shelter from wind

Wind is the silent clematis killer. It doesn’t always kill the plant, but it snaps new shoots, rubs stems on supports, and dries everything out.

If you can, place clematis where they get:

• a fence, hedge, or building as a wind break, and
• solid support to tie into early.

Soil: moisture-retentive, but free-draining

Clematis like soil that holds moisture but doesn’t sit wet in winter. In NZ terms:

• Clay soils: improve with compost, avoid planting in a “bowl”, and consider slightly raised planting to keep winter drainage moving.
• Sandy/gravelly soils: add compost and plan for deeper watering in the first summer.
• Very wet winter sites: go raised, improve drainage, or choose a better spot — cold soggy roots are where problems start.